I've been asked how to measure for a dress shirt sleeve length more times than I can count. A few weeks ago, a guy in his forties brought back a dress shirt he'd bought at another store. He'd guessed at the size because the numbers on the wrapper meant nothing to him, and the sleeves ended up a full inch too short. He asked me to show him how to measure for a dress shirt sleeve length properly, so I walked him through it right there at the counter. This is the same method I've used for 30 years on the men's floor.
Why Sleeve Length Is the Toughest Number on the Box
Most men know their neck size and their waist size. Sleeve length, though, confuses almost everyone. The sleeve length printed on a dress shirt label includes the back yoke, so the measurement starts at the center of the back collar seam, crosses over the shoulder, and goes down the outside of the arm to the wrist bone. That's why a 34/35 shirt looks longer than you'd expect before you put it on.
Another reason sleeve length trips men up is combination sizing. A dress shirt tag often says 34/35, meaning the shirt is cut for a 34.5-inch sleeve. If you fall between 34 and 35, that half-size is exactly what you need. I've also seen plenty of returns where the customer bought the same size he wore in high school, which is usually a mistake.
Getting sleeve length wrong is the reason dress shirts end up folded in the back of a closet with the tags still on. The sleeves are either swallowing the man's hands or riding halfway up his forearms the first time he raises them.
How to Measure for a Dress Shirt Sleeve Length
Here's the method I use when a customer asks me to size him from scratch. You'll need a soft cloth measuring tape and about two minutes. Start at the base of your neck, right where the back collar seam of your dress shirt sits. That's the bony bump you can feel when you tip your chin down. Place the end of the tape there. Keep your arm slightly bent at the elbow. Run the tape across the top of your shoulder, over the point of your shoulder, then down the outside of your arm to the bony bump on the outside of your wrist. That number in inches is your dress shirt sleeve length. Write it down and round to the nearest half-inch.
When I show a customer how to measure for a dress shirt sleeve length, I tell him not to point his arm straight out like a scarecrow. If you do, the measurement comes out short, and your sleeves will ride up every time you reach for a handshake. And don't pull the tape tight. You want it to follow the natural line of your arm. If you don't have a measuring tape, a piece of string and a ruler work just as well.
How to Measure a Dress Shirt You Already Own
If you have a dress shirt that fits you perfectly in the sleeves, you can skip the tape-on-your-body routine. Lay the shirt flat on a table and button it up. Run the tape from the center of the back collar seam, along the top of the shoulder, and down the sleeve to the end of the cuff. That measurement is your sleeve length, and it's the same number printed on the tag.
Three Sleeve Length Mistakes I See Every Season
First, men never pay attention to the cuff placement when they try on a shirt. They look in the mirror with their arms straight down and think the length is fine. Then they shake hands and the sleeve slides up their forearm. The cuff should sit at your wrist bone, not halfway down your hand.
Second, men ignore the collar tag and buy the size from high school. Body composition changes, and so does the shoulder slope. Re-measure every few years, especially if you've gained or lost twenty pounds.
Third, men buy a sleeve that's half an inch too long and plan to have it tailored later. That works, but it adds cost and an extra trip. Many department stores include free sleeve adjustments on the shirts they sell. Ask before you buy.
What to Do with Your Measurement
Once you know how to measure for a dress shirt sleeve length, you'll wonder why you ever guessed. Let's say your number comes out to 34.25 inches. Buy a shirt labeled 34/35. If you measure right at 34 inches, buy 34. If you're between 35 and 36, go to 35/36. The rule of thumb: when in doubt, go longer. A tailor can take up a half inch; he can't add fabric that isn't there.
Also keep the wrist bone in mind when you try the shirt on. The cuff should close snugly but still allow you to slip a finger between the cuff and your wrist. If the cuff slides under your watch band, the sleeve is too long. If it bunches above the watch, it's too short.
The 30-Second Fitting Room Check
Once you've got a shirt with the right number on the tag, put it on and do this. Lift your arms straight out to the sides, then bring them down and cross them in front of you. Your sleeves should stay at your wrist, not creep up your forearm. Button the collar. You should be able to fit two fingers between your neck and the collar. Then put on your jacket. The cuff of the shirt should peek out just past the jacket sleeve, about a quarter to a half inch if you're going for the classic look.
Sleeve length sounds complicated, but once you measure it correctly, you can buy dress shirts online or in a store with confidence. Try it on. That's what the fitting room is for.
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