After 30 years on the menswear floor, I can tell you the question I hear more than any other is how should a suit jacket fit. Men stand in front of the mirror, tug at the lapels, and have no idea whether the jacket is right or just expensive. I've handed dress shirts to about 50,000 customers, and I've seen the same mistakes over and over. Let me save you the trouble.
Start With the Shoulders, Not the Mirror
The shoulders are the anchor of any jacket. If the shoulders are wrong, nothing else matters. The sleeve seam should sit right at the edge of your shoulder bone, not an inch below it. When you move your arm forward, the shoulder should not bunch up. One reliable test: shrug your shoulders. If the jacket lifts up with them instead of staying put, it's too tight across the back. If the shoulder pads extend past your actual shoulder line, it's too big. I tell guys to trust the seam. It doesn't lie.
I had a customer come in last week, a guy in his forties buying a suit for his daughter's wedding. He'd already tried on a 42 regular at home and was ready to take it. I asked him to raise his arms above his head. The back pulled so tight the lapels lifted off his chest. We moved him up to a 44, and he looked like a different man. Same suit, same color, just the right size. That's the difference the shoulders make.
I know this sounds basic, but you'd be surprised how many men skip it. They look in the mirror and think the jacket looks fine because they're not moving. The mirror is only half the test.
The Button Test and the Lapel Line
Button the top button and look straight ahead. The lapels should lie flat against your chest without pulling or gaping. You should be able to slide a closed fist between your chest and the buttoned jacket. That's the classic rule, and it still works. If the fabric wrinkles around the button, the jacket is too tight through the body. If a horizontal crease forms across the back when you button it, the jacket is too tight at the waist.
The lapel should also sit flat against your chest all the way down. If the lapel curves outward or feels like it's floating, the jacket is pulling across the chest. Some men think that's just how the jacket looks. It isn't. A properly fitted jacket should make you look like the cloth was cut for you, not draped over you.
Sleeve Length and Jacket Length
Your sleeves should show about a quarter to half an inch of shirt cuff when your arms hang at your sides. That's the standard, and most guys know it. What they forget is the jacket length. The jacket should cover your rear end, ending around the middle of your hand when your arms are relaxed. A good rule: the jacket should be long enough that your fingers reach the hem when your arms are straight down.
Too many jackets end too high, making a man look like he borrowed it from a shorter brother. If the jacket is too short, it also pulls when you raise your arms. If it's too long, it bunches at the bottom and swallows your legs. Aim for that middle spot. When in doubt, go slightly longer—it's easier to have a tailor shorten a hem than to add fabric back.
What to Check in the Fitting Room
Move around before you decide. Raise your arms above your head. Sit down in the chair. Reach for your wallet. An expensive jacket that binds when you move is a waste of money. One salesman I worked with used to tell customers to pretend they were reaching for a steering wheel. If the jacket rides up or the lapels pop, size up. Most men wear a size too small because they're used to snug t-shirts. A suit jacket should feel like a tailored overcoat, not a compression shirt.
Before you buy, ask yourself how should a suit jacket fit when you're moving. You should be able to hug your kids, shake hands at a wedding, and sit through a long dinner without feeling like the jacket is fighting you. If it's comfortable sitting, standing, and reaching, you're on the right track.
Know When to Size Up
If you're between sizes, take the larger one and have the waist taken in. It's easier and cheaper to tailor a jacket that's too loose than one that's too tight. A good tailor can bring in the sides, shorten the sleeves, and adjust the waist for around 30 to 50 dollars at most dry cleaners. That's a small price compared to the 200 or 300 dollars you'll spend on a decent jacket. I've seen men buy a size too small because they thought the shrinking would solve it. It doesn't.
The extra fabric in a larger size gives the tailor something to work with. A too-tight jacket leaves no room for adjustment and often can't be let out at all. When you're shopping at Macy's, Kohl's, or Dillard's, the fitting room is your best friend. Try on the size you think you need, then try the next one up. Compare the two. The difference will be obvious.
The Bottom Line
The answer to how should a suit jacket fit isn't complicated. It should sit clean at the shoulders, button without strain, show a bit of shirt cuff, and cover your seat. You should be able to move without thinking about it. If you're shopping with a salesperson, ask for a second opinion. They've seen the same jackets go on and off a hundred times. Take your time. Try it on. That's what the fitting room is for.
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